Dufferin & Castlefield Location Is A Veal Oasis In The North

California Sandwiches

Here’s what you do: go to the counter at 244 Claremont St. in Little Italy and order “veal sweet with mushrooms” ($7.81). Then chat with everyone else in line while the women barely visible through the kitchen window go about their business. When your sandwich comes, it will be on a slightly crusty, soft-on-the-inside, round bun with slices of breaded veal stacked high, bathed in tomato sauce and covered in green peppers and mushrooms. Take it outside — maybe to the park — since the dining room isn’t much to look at. Take a bite. And give praise for the moments of simple grace provided by un-fancy Italian cooking. If the whole fattening-pen thing puts you off veal, skip the chicken ($6.86) and go for the best meatball sandwich in the city ($5.75), served on the same round bun with a single, giant meatball. You’ll never eat the cheap sub-chain version again.